Repairs & Leaks

Metal Roof Leaks | Fastener, Seam and Rust Repairs for Commercial Buildings

Why commercial metal roofs leak, warning signs, finding the leak, fastener, lap and rust repairs, why fixes fail, and repair vs restore vs replace.

CRSA Roofing TeamCommercial Roofing San Antonio
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Rain running off a rusty corrugated metal roof 5 min read
In this article 19 sections
  1. Why Is My Metal Roof Leaking?
  2. Signs Your Metal Roof Needs Repair
  3. Leaking Fasteners and Failed Washers
  4. Seam, Lap and Flashing Leaks
  5. How to Find the Leak on a Metal Roof
  6. Why Is My Metal Roof Dripping When It’s Not Raining?
  7. Rust and Corrosion Repairs
  8. Why Metal Roof Repairs Fail
  9. Repair, Restore or Replace?
  10. Spot Repair vs Full Restoration Coating
  11. Preventing Leaks | Metal Roof Maintenance Schedule
  12. FAQs | Metal Roof Leaks
  13. How often should metal roof screws be replaced?
  14. Can a rusted metal roof be saved?
  15. Does coating stop metal roof leaks at screws?
  16. Why does my metal roof leak only in wind-driven rain?
  17. What is oil canning, and does it cause leaks?
  18. What sealant is best for a leaky metal roof?
  19. Get a Metal Roof Repair Quote

Why Is My Metal Roof Leaking?

Most commercial metal roof leaks come from three places: failed screws and washers, open seams and laps, and rust at panel laps, cut edges and around penetrations. On screw-down roofs, fasteners are the shorter-lived part: screws older than about 20 years are near the end of their service life, and most won't last past 30.

Most metal roof leaks come from three places: worn-out screws and their rubber washers, open seams and laps where panels overlap, and rust at laps, cut edges and around penetrations.

On screw-down roofs, the screws wear out long before the panels do. Screws past about 20 years are near the end of their life.

The good news: most metal roof leaks can be fixed without replacing the roof, either with spot repairs or a full restoration coating if many fasteners and laps are failing.

  1. Look for loose or backed-out screws along purlin lines
  2. Look for rust streaks below screws, laps and cut edges
  3. Check laps, ridge caps, trims and penetrations for gaps
  4. Keep gutters and valleys clear
  5. Mark the drip inside and check every fastener and lap upslope of it
  6. Replace screws with one size larger, not caulk over them
  7. Plan fastener replacement or a restoration around 20 years
  8. Check if drips on dry days are condensation

If the roof drips on clear days, especially on cool mornings, it's usually condensation, not a leak. It's common in metal buildings with little or no insulation, and the fix is insulation with a vapor retarder, ventilation or controlling indoor moisture.

Avoid quick fixes that fail: caulk smeared over a leaking screw cracks with movement, rigid patches on laps don't flex, and sealant over dirt or rust doesn't bond. Asphalt roof cement cracks on metal.

Inspect twice a year and after hail or high wind, and re-seal laps and penetrations as the sealant ages.

Leaks only in wind-driven rain usually point to failed lap sealant or loose trim.

Why is my metal roof leaking?

Usually failed screws and washers, open seams and laps, or rust at laps, cut edges and penetrations.

Read this part of the article

How often should metal roof screws be replaced?

Plan on it around 20 years. Screws past that age are near the end of their life, and most won't last past 30.

Read this part of the article

How are leaking fasteners fixed?

Replace them with correctly seated screws one size larger in diameter, so they cut fresh threads in the existing hole.

Read this part of the article

Why is my metal roof dripping when it's not raining?

That's usually condensation: warm, humid indoor air hits the cold underside of the panels and drips like a leak.

Read this part of the article

How do you find the leak on a metal roof?

Water runs along ribs and purlins before it drips, so the leak is often uphill. Roofers check fasteners and laps upslope of the drip and water-test small sections.

Read this part of the article

Can a rusted metal roof be saved?

Usually, if the rust is on the surface and panels aren't rusted through. Rust is removed, primed and the roof is coated.

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Should I repair, restore or replace?

Repair a roof under about 15 to 20 years with a few leaks; restore one with many fastener and lap leaks but solid panels; replace or retrofit if panels are rusted through.

Read this part of the article

Does coating stop leaks at screws?

Only after loose or failed screws are replaced or tightened. Coating over bad fasteners just hides the problem for a while.

Read this part of the article

Why does my metal roof leak only in wind-driven rain?

Wind pushes water into laps, trims and ridge caps that stay dry in normal rain. It usually points to failed lap sealant or loose trim.

Read this part of the article

The good news is that most metal roof leaks are fixable without replacing the roof. Here’s how we diagnose and repair them on warehouses and metal buildings across commercial roofing in San Antonio.

Signs Your Metal Roof Needs Repair

Look for these before the next big rain. Most can be seen from a roof hatch or the ground with binoculars:

  • Water stains under panel laps, skylights or along the eave inside the building
  • Loose or backed-out screws, often in rows along purlin lines
  • Rust streaks below screws, laps and cut edges
  • Separated seams or sealant squeezing out of laps
  • Wavy panels (oil canning) or panels bending between supports
  • Cracked or yellowed skylight panels
  • Dried-out sealant around pipes, vents and curbs
Rusted corrugated metal roof with exposed fasteners

Leaking Fasteners and Failed Washers

Problem Cause Fix
Overdriven screw Crushed washer bulges and lets water in Replace with correctly seated fastener
Underdriven or angled screw Washer never sealed Replace and seat properly
Backed-out screw Thermal movement loosens it over time Replace with a larger-diameter screw
Rusted screw Wrong coating or dissimilar metals Replace with compatible, corrosion-resistant fastener
Aged washer Rubber dries and cracks with age and UV Replace fastener and washer

Replacement screws should be one size larger in diameter than the original so they cut fresh threads in the existing hole, for example moving from a #14 to a #17 screw. Reusing the same size can leave a loose connection.

Fastener guidance: SFS, How to Replace Metal Roof Screws.

Seam, Lap and Flashing Leaks

  • Side and end laps where panels overlap lose their sealant tape over time and let wind-driven rain in.
  • Ridge caps, trims and transitions pull loose with movement.
  • Penetrations such as exhaust fans, skylights and pipe flashings crack or separate.
  • Gutters and valleys clog and back water up under panels.

These are repaired by re-sealing laps with compatible sealant and, often, a reinforcing fabric and coating, plus replacing failed trim and penetration flashings.

Hard hats on a metal roof during a leak inspection

How to Find the Leak on a Metal Roof

Water travels along panel ribs and purlins before it drips, so the leak is often uphill of the stain. Roofers trace it by:

  1. Marking the drip location inside and measuring to a fixed point (wall or column)
  2. Checking every fastener, lap and penetration upslope of that point
  3. Looking for daylight from inside on a sunny day
  4. Water-testing small sections, starting low and working up, so only one area is wet at a time

Why Is My Metal Roof Dripping When It’s Not Raining?

That’s usually condensation, not a leak. Warm, humid indoor air hits the cold underside of the panels, often on cool mornings, and drips like a leak. It’s common in metal buildings with little or no insulation.

  • Signs it’s condensation: drips on clear days, droplets across large areas, worse on cool mornings
  • Fixes: insulation with a sealed vapor retarder on the warm side, better ventilation, controlling indoor moisture sources, or an anti-condensation coating on the underside
  • Long-term fix: a retrofit roof with continuous insulation between the old and new panels
Close-up of a rusted screw and corroded metal surface

Rust and Corrosion Repairs

  1. Remove loose rust by wire brushing or grinding.
  2. Treat remaining rust with a rust-inhibitive primer.
  3. Seal or patch thinned areas; replace panels that are rusted through.
  4. Coat the area or the whole roof to stop further corrosion.

Why Metal Roof Repairs Fail

Most repeat leaks come from repairs that didn’t account for how metal moves. Avoid these common mistakes:

Mistake Why it fails Better approach
Caulk smeared over a leaking screw Seals for a season, then cracks with movement Replace the screw with an oversized fastener
Rigid patches on laps Metal expands and contracts daily Flexible sealant plus reinforcing fabric and coating
Sealant over dirt or rust Doesn’t bond Clean, wire-brush and prime first
Wrong metal or fastener Galvanic corrosion Use compatible, coated fasteners and metals
Patching only the visible spot Water entered elsewhere Trace the full water path
Corrugated metal roof with a vent pipe penetration

Repair, Restore or Replace?

Choose When
Repair Roof under about 15 – 20 years old, a few isolated leaks
Restore (coating system) Many fastener and lap leaks, surface rust, panels still solid
Replace or retrofit Panels rusted through, structural damage, or you need new insulation

Spot Repair vs Full Restoration Coating

Spot repair Full restoration coating
Scope Specific leaks, fasteners and laps Whole roof: all fasteners addressed, laps sealed, rust treated, coating applied
Cost Per item About $1.50 – $4.50 / sq ft for silicone; acrylic $0.50 – $2.00
Best when Roof is young and leaks are isolated Roof is aging with many fastener and lap issues
Result Stops current leaks Adds 10 – 20 years and a new warranty

Coating cost: Roofr (2026).

See metal roof repair and restoration and commercial metal roofing in San Antonio.

Preventing Leaks | Metal Roof Maintenance Schedule

When Task
Twice a year (spring and fall) Check fasteners, laps, trims, penetrations and gutters
After hail or high wind Inspect for damaged panels, loose trim and lifted fasteners
Every few years Re-seal laps and penetrations as sealant ages
Around 20 years for screws Plan fastener replacement or a restoration

 

FAQs | Metal Roof Leaks

How often should metal roof screws be replaced?

Plan on it around 20 years. Screws past that age are near the end of their service life, and most won’t last past 30. Inspect them twice a year and replace any that are loose, rusted or have cracked washers.

Can a rusted metal roof be saved?

Usually, if the rust is on the surface and panels aren’t rusted through. Rust is removed, primed and the roof is coated. Panels with holes are replaced or patched first.

Does coating stop metal roof leaks at screws?

A restoration coating system seals around fasteners, but only after loose or failed screws are replaced or tightened. Coating over bad fasteners just hides the problem for a while.

Why does my metal roof leak only in wind-driven rain?

Wind pushes water sideways into laps, trims and ridge caps that stay dry in normal rain. It usually points to failed lap sealant or loose trim.

What is oil canning, and does it cause leaks?

Oil canning is visible waviness in flat areas of metal panels. It’s usually cosmetic, but if it comes with loose fasteners or panel movement, have the attachment checked.

What sealant is best for a leaky metal roof?

Use sealants rated for metal roofing, such as butyl tape at laps and polyurethane or silicone sealants at trims and penetrations, matched to any coating you’ll apply later. Avoid asphalt-based roof cement, which cracks on metal.

Get a Metal Roof Repair Quote

We’ll inspect fasteners, laps, trim and rust, then quote spot repairs and a full restoration side by side.

Book your free roof inspection in San Antonio or see metal building (PEMB) roofing.

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CRSA Roofing Team

Part of the Commercial Roofing San Antonio team.

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